In the world of fashion, trends often come and go like passing fads. However, some iconic brands have managed to transcend time and become enduring symbols of style. Birkenstock, originally renowned for its comfortable but decidedly unfashionable sandals, is one such brand that has undergone a remarkable transformation.
The Birth of Birkenstock
The Birkenstock story began over two centuries ago, in 1774, when Johann Adam Birkenstock registered himself as a shoemaker in the small German village of Langen-Bergheim. The brand’s defining moment came in 1964 when Karl Birkenstock, a descendant of the founder, developed the legendary Birkenstock footbed. This contoured cork and latex insole provided unparalleled comfort and support, revolutionizing the concept of casual footwear. The Boston, unquestionably the season’s most popular silhouette, originally appeared in 1976. This basic closed-toe form, which is offered in a variety of colors and materials, has become a go-to look for both indoor and outdoor use as well as for work and play.
Fashion Evolution
While Birkenstock’s comfortable, orthopedic-inspired sandals were embraced by health-conscious consumers, they were often seen as the antithesis of high fashion. However, in the early 2000s, a fashion renaissance was on the horizon. The surge in popularity of ‘normcore’ fashion, which embraced unpretentious, everyday items, opened the door for Birkenstock to reposition itself. It was in 1992, they first surfaced in the world of fashion. Marc Jacobs drew inspiration from the bubbling grunge subculture and fitted Tyra Banks and Claudia Mason in ‘Arizona’ sandals for his infamous Perry Ellis show (which subsequently got him fired), along with models in All Stars and Doc Martens. Two decades later, Phoebe Philo’s 2012 Céline collection saw an adaptation of the Arizona sandals lined with mink, which fashion glossies labelled as ‘Furkenstocks’.
Birkenstock’s transformation from an unfashionable brand to a fashion darling can be largely attributed to its recent strategic collaborations with prominent players in the fashion industry. One of the most notable partnerships occurred in 2019 when the iconic luxury fashion house Dior teamed up with Birkenstock for a limited-edition collection. This collaboration not only elevated the Birkenstock brand’s status but also exemplified the merging of comfort and style in contemporary fashion.
The Dior x Birkenstock collaboration saw classic Birkenstock silhouettes adorned with Dior’s signature Oblique canvas, intricate embroidery, and exquisite leatherwork. This fusion of high fashion and comfort footwear was a turning point, challenging traditional notions of what could be considered stylish.
Further significant collaborations
In 2018, avant-garde fashion designer Rick Owens collaborated with Birkenstock to develop a limited-edition collection. Rick Owens’ distinct, edgy design approach was mixed with the comfort and utility of Birkenstock sandals for this partnership. The resulting designs used unusual materials and striking silhouettes, drawing a new generation of fashion-conscious customers.
In 2020, the famed Italian luxury fashion brand Valentino collaborated with Birkenstock to develop a high-fashion capsule collection. Birkenstock’s renowned Arizona sandal was paired with Valentino’s characteristic Rockstud embellishments, resulting in a remarkable fusion of casual comfort and high-end luxury.
The New York-based fashion brand Proenza Schouler collaborated with Birkenstock in 2021, introducing a line of stylish, textured sandals that incorporated elements of the Proenza Schouler aesthetic. This partnership showcased how Birkenstock could seamlessly integrate its comfort-focused design with the creative visions of renowned fashion designers
The Upcoming IPO
Birkenstock’s ascent in the fashion world has not gone unnoticed by investors. In 2021,
Financière Agache, the family investment firm of Bernard Arnault, the French billionaire who controls the designer brand conglomerate LVMH, and L Catterton, a private equity firm part-owned by LVMH, has bought a majority stake in the family-owned footwear brand.
Arnault’s experience in taking brands to Asia, and L Catterton’s ownership of fashion brands such as Ganni, Seafolly and Pepe Jeans are thought to have swung the bid in their favour.
Christian and Alex Birkenstock said: “For the next 250 years we need partners sharing the same strategic and long-term vision as the Birkenstock family. In L Catterton and Financière Agache, we have found those partners. They bring both a deep understanding of the details of a manufacturing business that is all about quality and a respect for brands with a long heritage like ours. We look forward to taking the next steps with our partners and carrying our family business into an even brighter future.”
Only 2 years after the majority acquisition by the two conglomerates, it was announced that Birkenstock would be going public with an Initial Public Offering (IPO). This significant step not only underscores the brand’s impressive growth in the past years but also demonstrates the confidence of investors in its ability to maintain and expand its fashion-forward appeal.
The IPO is expected to provide Birkenstock with the capital needed for further expansion, innovation, and potentially more groundbreaking collaborations. It is a testament to how a brand that was once associated with functional footwear for health-conscious individuals has managed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward consumers. Around two thirds of the papers are to be offered by the main owner company L Catterton, which is linked to the luxury group LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, etc.) and its billionaire boss Bernard Arnault (74). L Catterton will retain control of Birkenstock after the IPO.
Birkenstock’s journey from an unassuming, orthopedic shoe brand to a fashion staple is a remarkable tale of reinvention and adaptability. The brand’s strategic collaborations with fashion giants like Dior have propelled it into the spotlight, challenging preconceived notions of style and comfort. As Birkenstock prepares to go public, it stands as a shining example of how a classic, utilitarian brand can successfully navigate the ever-evolving world of fashion, earning its place as a cherished fashion staple for years to come.
By Tim Auernheimer
References:
“Our History: About Birkenstock.” Our History | About BIRKENSTOCK, www.birkenstock.com/gb/history/about-us-history/.
“Birkenstock: Börsengang Soll Bis Zu 1,6 Milliarden Dollar Einbringen.” Manager Magazin, www.manager-magazin.de/unternehmen/birkenstock-boersengang-soll-bis-zu-1-6-milliarden-dollar-einbringen-a-278cd2d1-c357-4c31-86fd-54248f590fb0.
Grover, Rupangi. “How Birkenstock Sandals Went from ‘Ugly Shoe’ to an Everyday Style Staple.” Vogue India, www.vogue.in/fashion/content/how-birkenstock-sandals-went-from-ugly-shoe-to-an-everyday-style-staple.
