Every year, the Oscars red carpet acts as both a grand stage for Hollywood’s finest and a reflection of the current fashion landscape. The 97th Academy Awards were no exception. This year’s fashion moments felt particularly rich in symbolism, with archival nods and couture craftsmanship taking center stage.
My favorite look of the night had to be Ariana Grande in custom Schiaparelli for her performance, a gown as rich in meaning as it was in visual impact. The deep red piece was stunning on its own, but the real statement lay in the single red shoe affixed to the back of the dress — a detail that carried a brilliant double entendre. For Grande, often associated with The Wizard of Oz due to her role as Glinda in Wicked, the reference to Dorothy’s ruby slippers was immediately apparent. Yet, beyond its cinematic ties, the red shoe was also a direct nod to Schiaparelli’s history, referencing the iconic 1937 “Shoe Hat” designed in collaboration with Salvador Dalí. This interplay between Hollywood nostalgia and fashion history was to put plainly, ingenious and successful. Grande’s Schiaparelli gown exemplified the best of storytelling through fashion — where personal narrative, haute couture, and archival homage merge to create a moment that lingers far beyond the night itself.
Ariana Grande wearing Schiaparelli
If one motif dominated the red carpet this year, for both the Awards and the Vanity Fair annual after-party, it was undoubtedly the bow. From Cynthia Erivo in custom Louis Vuitton to Mikey Madison in custom Dior, bows were everywhere. The presence of the motif was definitely in-tune with the latest FW25 runways. Saint Laurent infused structured tailoring
with bows cinching the waist, balancing the sharp lines with soft, feminine details. Valentino leaned into the idea of intimacy, incorporating bows both subtly and prominently, embodying the collection’s theme of intertwining private and public facets. Chanel paid homage to one of the Maison’s iconic codes, the bow, by reimagining it with an air of nostalgia, evoking the House’s DNA of femininity.
The return of bows signals something larger: a renewed embrace of femininity in fashion. But this resurgence isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s reflective of a broader cultural moment. Designers are tapping into a collective yearning for romance, fantasy, and old-world charm—perhaps as a response to the increasing digitization of fashion and life. The rise of ‘coquette’ and ‘balletcore’ aesthetics further fuels bows’ popularity, showing how subcultures influence high fashion and vice versa. The revival of bows is not just a design trend; it is a reflection of fashion’s current ethos—a blend of nostalgia, femininity, and quiet power. Whether romantic or subversive, bows are more than just adornments; they are a statement on how we navigate aesthetics, tradition, and modern identity in an era that constantly redefines them.
Cynthia Erivo in Louis Vuitton
Mikey Madison in Dior
Another recurring trend was the use of sheer fabric, seen in delicate yet daring interpretations. To name a few, Lily-Rose Depp in custom Chanel, Zoë Kravitz in custom Saint Laurent, Emily Ratajkowski in custom Ludovic de Saint Sernin. This fascination with transparency echoes what we saw on the FW25 runways, where sheer layering was used to create tension between exposure and concealment. At Chloé, lace and ruffles flowed alongside sheer silhouettes and multitiered hems, presenting a sophisticated blend of free-
spirited style and transparency. Ferragamo channeled the spirit of romance and sensuality, integrating sheer fabrics to complement structure with fluidity. Dior drew inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s ‘Orlando’ where the prevalence of sheer garments across the collection adds to the season’s themes of transparency through revealing one’s inner self whilst also tapping into the new boho trend, merging sensuality with whimsy.
The resurgence of sheerness in fashion invites a deeper contemplation of vulnerability and empowerment. Sheer fabrics, by their very nature, play with the dichotomy of exposure and concealment, challenging traditional notions of modesty and allure. This trend suggests a societal shift towards embracing complexity, that true empowerment arises from authenticity and self-expression. In an era where transparency is both a literal and metaphorical currency, fashion’s flirtation with sheerness reflects our collective journey towards embracing the multifaceted human experience. The sheer trend raises an interesting question: is Hollywood’s take on it a form of controlled sensuality, or does it represent something deeper? Perhaps it’s a response to fashion’s ongoing dialogue with power and agency—choosing when and how to reveal.
One of the more intriguing themes of the night and overall Awards season was the continued presence of archival fashion. Some of my favorites of the night have to be Kaia Gerber in a cream slip dress from the Valentino spring 1997 collection, complete with a matching cape, and Kendall Jenner in a black lace Thierry Mugler gown from the spring 1992 collection. Whilst there were not as many true vintage pieces on the red carpet, the archival references were abundant. In recent years, there has been a sharp revival in the appreciation for vintage and the archives. This trend signifies a deeper connection to fashion history, where wearing vintage pieces becomes a form of storytelling and personal
expression. Celebrities and fashion enthusiasts alike are gravitating towards these timeless designs, not merely for their aesthetic appeal but for the rich narratives they embody. This shift suggests a collective yearning for authenticity and a recognition of the enduring value of craftsmanship, challenging the fast-paced nature of contemporary fashion cycles.
This year’s Oscars red carpet was more than just a collection of beautiful pieces—it was a snapshot of a cultural moment. Each look reflected the deeper currents of our time: a desire for nostalgia, a return to femininity, and a celebration of individuality. But what happens when fashion begins to reflect not just personal taste, but a broader societal longing? In a world that is constantly in flux, fashion becomes a mirror, reflecting both the tensions and aspirations of the times. Maybe the true power of fashion lies in its ability to capture the fleeting nature of our cultural moments, and in doing so, immortalize them in fabric, design, and color.
By Ashley Wee
Sources:
https://people.com/oscars-2025-ariana-grande-rocks-ruby-red-pumps-during-wicked- performance-11689306
https://www.instyle.com/best-dressed-celebrities-photos-oscars-2025-11689185
https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/40309/saint-laurent-s-90s-couture-has-never- been-so-desirable
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/a64114534/valentino-fall-winter-2025/ https://vmagazine.com/article/chanel-fw-25-26-ready-to-wear/ https://harpersbazaar.com.au/dior-fall-winter-2025-runway-review/ https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/best-vintage-looks-2025-oscars
