During the latest Woman Fashion Week in Milan, Dolce & Gabbana displayed its new collection “Eleganza” and BS4F was kindly invited to attend.
Before talking about the fashion show itself, let me first briefly analyze the name: “Eleganza”. The word Eleganza, in English “elegant”, comes from the Latin elegans, meaning “the one who can choose”. Following the etymology of the title, D&G showcased a wide range of different styles able to suit every women’s taste and accompany her throughout different times of the day (or of life), while keeping as common denominator a chic appeal and a strong tie to the Italian tradition of “Fatto a mano” (Made by hand).
The atmosphere was strongly influenced by the brand’s past eras, bringing the Italian “Dolce Vita” on stage. A draped red curtain framed by two baroque vases of flowers composed the background of the show, while a black and white video starring the D&G Atelier was used to accompany and explain the collection. The latter was, then, showcased split in different sections, each one recalling a masterpiece from D&G’s past and appealing to different types of women (or to a woman who likes to play and change).
The first looks on the runway took inspiration from men’s suits, with double-breasted and straight-leg dress pants in sophisticated black and white patterns. To contrast these masculine cuts, a series of elegant night gowns and sets in pastel shades of chiffon and satin with lace detailing, made their appearance.
A third group of models walked the runway dressed in animal prints that were reminiscent of the past days of the brand, immediately followed by a bouquet of flowers that made spring blossom on stage.
“Eleganza” then took the form of tweed tailleurs, dotted voluminous dresses, surrealist-like paintings on coats and gowns and tight colour-block shapes that enhanced the femininity of women’s body recalling the rigour of the Sicilian dress code. The latter was impersonated by the series of looks that made the D&G famous “Nero Sicilia” ( Sicilian Black) the protagonist: elegant, sensual but never vulgar. The two designers stretched the idea of “The little black dress” to its maximum, and managed to present some astonishing variations of it.
Before showcasing their masterpieces, D&G introduced an unexpected twist to the usual Fashion Show by presenting six wedding dresses. And then, his majesty, the Broquade, entered the room and the audience gave a well-deserved round of applause. Evoking the splendor of the Byzantine churches that leave tourists astounded in the South of Italy, this precious fabric was shaped into regal silhouettes that showcased the double nature of a woman; fierceness and finesse in one look.
Overall, after a troubled year during which Dolce&Gabbana was at the centre of public attention for its dubious behavior, the two designers put aside any type of kink and focused on showing the world what the true DNA of the brand is made of.
Thanking them for allowing BS4F to attend this charming show, I cannot help it but admire their amazing work, that season after season finds new refreshing ways to link the fascinating past and history of the Italian peninsula with the modern dynamic and ever-changing trends of the fashion industry.
by Bianca Cattadori
