We’re in December 2014, and the mutli-brand luxury group Kering announces the departure of Patrizio di Marco and Frida Giannini, respectively Gucci’s CEO and artistic director. This wave of departures from Gucci comes as no surprise, and marks the beginning of a fresh start for the Florentine brand. Set up in 1921 by Guccio Gucci and acquired in 1999 by the ancestor of Kering, PPR, the double G brand was, at the time, going through a rough patch. 2013 has proved to be a downturn in the brand’s sales, a situation that worsened in 2014, with lower sales volume of 1.8% at 3,49 billion euros. Considering that Gucci is the…
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Good American, Clashing Ideals?
It’s here! Yesterday Khloé Kardashian launched her new line of jeans “Good American” and the whole Internet is buzzing about it. Apart from the visually appealing styles, the line is being praised for it’s inclusive image. With sizes ranging from 0-24, made with stretchy fabric to showcase natural curves, the brand claims that its mission is to have a positive impact on the community. “Pledging to sustain the manufacturing of jeans in the United States and supporting charities that empower girls to realize their true potential,” reads the website. Co-founder, Emma Grede stated, “We believe everybody deserves to be shown off. Fashion should be made to fit women, not the…
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A Guardian of Human Dignity: the Story of Brunello Cucinelli
October 18 is indeed a significant day for us at Bocconi Students for Fashion: a guest lecture will be held with the one-of-a-kind Italian fashion magnate Brunello Cucinelli. Having started his business with cashmere sweaters in 1978, in almost 40 years he grew it to a multinational empire with impressive financials, which are just one among his numerous achievements. Today’s article will go through the history of the iconic luxury house, tell a story of a truly humanistic approach, and explain why ethics and dignity are not contradictory to that primary business goal we all got used to. Brunello Cucinelli launched his first garments in 1978, focusing on craftsmanship and…
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Chiaja: a New Luxury Brand Rising
With a few weeks of delay, Milan is finally blossoming, trees are green again and summer seems to be finally coming. The time to make a choice about the look to wear on the beach this year is approaching, and with it the birth (and fast death) of many aspiring and unstructured swimwear fashion brands. But one seems to be different from the others, and has its roots in places very close to where we all study every day.The startup I want to tell you about today is Chiaja, born from three Bocconi students, Alessando, Umberto and Gabriele, with the dream to re-invent the way men’s swim shorts are worn…
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The End of Big Chinese Fashion Manufacturers?
Over the past 30 years China has been a key pillar of manufacturing in general and even more of fashion manufacturing, but the last times has put the colossus under pressure. Nowadays Italy is the nearest competitor in fashion manufacturing , producing an eight of Chinese average output, but staying far far away from the surprising percentage of China, that yield the 60% of the world’s shoes and the 43% of world’s clothing. However Zhongguo is facing a storm that could lead to the loss of its primacy: the arrival on the scene of cheaper sourcing hubs in Africa and Asia and the always higher production costs, together with long term…
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Kering: When Sustainability Marries With Luxury
Sustainability and fashion – two words full of meaning that seem to collide, but where the social power of this mesmerizing industry strikes again, creating synergies between an apparent dichotomy. Environmental impact has been a hot issue in the recent years, and the fashion industry has often been placed on the other side of the spectrum, and classified as one of the most polluting industries in the planet. Last week, Kering published an ambitious sustainability report marking an important step towards a more sustainable luxury. Let’s see what its implications are. Kering has been the first luxury giant to share publicly the environmental impact of its operations. Last weesk’s report…
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Fashion Small Businesses: The risks, the successes and the women who run the world (or at least Canada)
As my last week in Canada I wanted to take this moment to celebrate some truly inspiring Canadian women who have taken the risk of starting their own fashion small businesses in the country. Now I am going to be very honest with you (especially all you readers who do not live in Canada), our country is very very big and there is no way for me to be able to know, have met or justly recognize all the Canadian women making their mark in the small business fashion sector. However it has been my privilege to see the growth of the following women and see their risks pay off…
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Saint Laurent: A Strategy For Success
Saint Laurent has undergone major changes in the last month. The fashion world rendered homage to Hedi Slimane’s departure from his position as creative director and welcomed Anthony Vaccarello as his successor. What’s more, last week Kering reported buoyant growth in revenues up 27% in the first quarter of 2016, driven by retail sales and double-digit growth in all geographies and all product categories. What are the pillars of this winning strategy? Earlier this morning an interview with YSL CEO Francesca Bellettini by Imran Amed (BoF’s editor in chief), helped giving some clarity to the quasi-abnormal growth, and cleared the air after the confusion and press talk after Slimane left.…
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High Tech & Retail: The Next Big Move?
As the shopping experience is gradually moving from the physical retail store to online shopping platforms, stores are fighting to stay relevant in an increasingly digital world. Many retailers are now exploring high-tech gadgets as a sales tool to compete with online sellers for shoppers’ attention. Tommy Hilfiger is the first international retailer to make use of Virtual Reality gadgets: during fall fashion week 2015, they introduced the Samsung Gear VR Headset in their Manhattan store. This virtual reality headset gave shoppers a three-dimensional, front-row view of the fashion show, held at New York’s Park Avenue Armory. The shopper would sit a few virtual feet from the models while they…
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A Thousand And One Reasons Why Dubai Can Be The Next Fashion Capital
Dubai as the capital of a new-born fashion industry? Here is why I think it is possible. 1. THE RETAIL MECCA Dubai’s alluring and exotic modernity is tempting travellers from all over the world, making it one of the most desired holiday destinations. Market data are astounding: according to Bain’s luxury report, the Middle East is the tenth largest luxury goods market, with sales exceeding 6 billion euros. Dubai alone accounts for 30% of this amount. Those consumers bear an international trademark: market studies demonstrate that the city is the second favourite shopping destination in the world, overstepping even NYC. This success is partly due to Dubai’s affirmation as an…
