As we come to the end of the second month of 2020, racism in the fashion world still runs rampant. One would think that by now, in an age of ever-increasing cross-cultural connectivity, at least some semblance of cultural sensitivity would be present. And yet, it seems like every other month brings about another ignorant misstep from some of the industry’s biggest names. Gucci’s ‘blackface’ sweater springs to mind, as does DSquared’s ‘DSquaw’ FW15 collection – which not only appropriated Indigenous North-American culture, but saw no problem with using the derogatory term ‘squaw’ in the title of their collection – and of course, Dolce & Gabbana last year with their…
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Worst and Best of the month (part 1)
LOW-DESPICABLE What happened to the New York fashion week? With more absences on the calendar than ever before, the most exclusive event in the big Apple will miss most of the 90s powerhouse names. From Calvin Klein (done with the runways for now) and Tommy Hilfiger (presenting the new collection in London), to Ralph Lauren who will skip fashion week for the first time in over 5 decades. Even Tom Ford has chosen Los Angeles and the Academy Awards over New York and the fashion week. Looks like red carpets are the new runways. After all what would Fashion Week be without a fashion victim? Even if it’s the week…
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Worst and Best of the Month: XMAS EDITION
It’s that sparkly, golden and wonderful period of the year again! Mariah and Bublé on repeat, Christmas lights, happy children running around in the city centre, tons of sugar everywhere and that cozy-festive feeling … but do you know what we like the most about this period? Fashion news! During Christmas we are all on our best behavior so it only makes sense that this edition will be less about the worst and more about the best of the month! Have yourself a merry little reading! High-brilliant Le Chanel chalet You still have doubts regarding your holiday destination? In the meantime, we suggest you go check “Chanel No.5 in the…
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The new trends regarding fashion designers and the story of Eve by Rebeca
The Blonde Salad. Something Navy. Camila Coelho Collection. Song of Style. Gisou. Does any of these names ring a bell? In today’s post-Instagram, heavily “influenced” world, having followers has become a synonym for economic power. What started out as a – social – network, has actually become a worldwide digital market as influencers have understood that each one of their thousands of followers has a potential value, which can be easily monetized either through advertisements or by transforming those same followers into customers. Fashion bloggers like Aimee Song are increasingly choosing to adopt a diversification strategy which often leads them to launch their own fashion brands, lifestyle blogs, skincare lines,…
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Worst and Best of the month (part2)
Lowbrow-Despicable Victoria’s Secret says goodbye to its annual fashion show! According to CEO Les Wexner: “We don’t believe network television is the right fit, the company will instead divert its focus toward digital marketing”. According to us, it sounds more like an alibi than an argument … The lingerie giant has in fact, registered consecutive quarters of declining sales and neither through the introduction of plus-size models, nor through a gender-inclusive campaign has redeemed its reputation. It is also facing some growing competition from new startups like Savage x Fenty, whose message is attracting an audience no longer interested in VS’s “too high standards”. It seems that the angelic brand…
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“Re-thinking” Victoria’s Secret: How To Sell Female Sexuality In The New Decade
As Rihanna’s newest Fenty x Savage lingerie line took the stage during last month’s New York Fashion Week for an exceptionally vivacious, celebratory, widely inclusive fashion-show-turned-live-performance, it almost felt like a long-awaited revolution in American intimates market has finally marched through the runways. The overthrown ruler of catwalk, according to media, was the once almighty Victoria’s Secret. The American lingerie juggernaut needs no introduction. Neither does Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, infamous for sending down the runway heavenly gorgeous, long-limbed, shiny “Angels” in unholy, racy outfits – all to the sound of the season’s bop, preferably performed live. This year, however, for the first time in its 25 years history, the…
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Worst and best of the month (Part 1)
Low-despicable Marylin sings “But square cut or pear shaped, these rocks don’t lose their shape…Diamonds are girls best friends”. LVMH seems to know it well since it is exploring a takeover of Tiffany&Co. This deal would be the largest ever for the luxury giant, taking significant market share away from rival Richemont, and also giving it a much bigger presence in both American and Chinese markets. Only If it goes ahead… Looks like the most iconic of US luxury brands has already refused LVMH’s offer. So, raise the price or run & hide. Richemont’s operating profit fell by 61% to €869 million for the first half of its reporting year,…
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Fashion Businesses and Disruptive Innovation
On the 18th of September Bocconi Students for Fashion in collaboration with Jeme Bocconi Studenti organized the event named “Fashion Businesses and Disruptive Innovations”, which was held at Bocconi University. Digitalization and online shopping are becoming elements that every fashion company should integrate in its business model in order to survive to today’s extreme level of competition. New technologies have changed the rules of the game, lowering barriers to entry and allowing new and disruptive business models to emerge. Thanks to an increasingly interconnected world, businesses no longer need high capital investments in order to grow both quickly and globally. As more and more ways of doing business emerge, those…
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A Trilogy on Tweaking Identities: A Case Study on Céline
As the continual from our discussion of Yves Saint Laurent on shifting identities of brands themselves and of society’s portrayal of dressing oneself, it would be oblivious if Celine did not take part in this potentially controversial yet necessary discussion. Why controversial? When a designer is to be succeeding a predecessor with a pronounceable-sized shadow, this signifies two things. On the one hand, there is the presence of a strong “fan base” who likely identifies their purchase vision according to this designer’s aesthetics, color palette, design philosophies, etc. On the other hand, to succeed said designer means to either play with the cookie cutters left around, or to throw them…
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A Trilogy on Tweaking Identities: A Case Study on Yves Saint Laurent
The “Tweaking of Identities” could be roughly grouped into two categories. First and foremost, the internal modifications in regard to the brand, which are usually linked to changing creative designers therefore shifting how we perceive the label. The second dimension focuses on the external fashion-scape, where the actions of a designer/s collectively alter not just how we dress but how we think we should dress. Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, professionally known as Yves Saint-Laurent, was born on August 1st, 1936 in Oran, Algeria to French parents. In his early teen years, Saint-Laurent spent his time creating intricate paper dolls accompanied by the precise accessorizes, clothes, and hair carefully curated at…