Created in 1968, Calvin Klein is an American designer fashion retail chain, primarily known for its underwear and denim lines. On top of those two categories, it now focuses on clothing for all genders and age groups, lifestyle accessories, shows, perfume, and jewelry. Sparking controversy over its ads and fashion shows over the years,Calvin Klein differentiates itself through its boldness, progressive ideas, and seductive, yet minimalist aesthetic. These have often led to setbacks for the brand, including having to shut down its high-end fashion show department in 2019. Thankfully, a new surprise presents itself in 2025: Calvin Klein returns to the runway for New York Fashion Week.
In 1978, Calvin Klein completed its first photoshoot with model Patti Hansen. The photoshoot was an outright success, and led to an iconic billboard campaign. A mere two years later, Calvin Klein was mired in controversy after a provocative campaign that featured actress Brooke Shields, who was only 15 at the time. The campaign depicted Shields with the slogan, “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” The erotic slogan coupled with such a young star raised concerns, even during that time period. The photos were displayed on billboards and stayed extremely popular for the next few years. Controversy surrounding the brand’s ads came two years later. Initially only seeking to shock the public, the brand ultimately began to push the limits of concepts such as boldness and seduction.
In 1992, young Kate Moss appeared topless next to the older and more-experienced supermodel Mark Wahlberg. This photoshoot launched Kate Moss into a “sex icon” title, all while being known for her “child-like” appearance. It was later revealed in an interview that she had felt extremely uncomfortable during the shoot. She described how she felt: “vulnerable,” “scared,” and “objectified” by the scenario. She claimed Klein “played on my vulnerability.” In 1995, Calvin Klein was embroiled in a new scandal regarding similar suggestive brand advertisements.
The American Family Association decided to boycott all retailers which carried the jeans, and some of the ads supposedly portraying minors were investigated by the Justice Department, though in the end no charges were filed. Such events lingered in the public conscience well into the 2000s. In 2009, models were seen wearing Calvin Klein denim, and not much else, once again setting off countless conversations about sexuality, body image, and artistic freedom.
Calvin Klein’s runways have similarly challenged the public’s reactions. Calvin Klein’s first major runway show occurred in 1970, marking its debut in the industry. Through the 1990s, the brand was heavily criticized for promoting a certain “heroin-chic” aesthetic; pale, thin, and disheveled looks were prominent on the runway. Kate Moss became the model for this aesthetic, which promoted excessively unhealthy beauty standards, even for the modeling industry. During this time, she also became the face of the brand, and her international career as a supermodel was launched. A few years later, the 1998 Fall show was overtaken by extremely sheer fabrics, making some models appear nearly nude on the runway. Although nudity could also be seen as an expression of art and appreciation of the female body, it did send shockwaves over the fashion world.
The last runway show was in September 2018, when the brand was under the creative direction of Raf Simons. Less than a year later in 2019, Calvin Klein’s parent company (PVH) announced the discontinuation of the Calvin Klein runway collections. Mostly due to an artistic and financial fallout (the brand lost $240 million), PVH axed the entire runway division, an unexpected move given the previous popularity and success of its now-iconic runway shows. The designer’s high end vision was reportedly too luxe for Calvin Klein’s core customers, who preferred the brand’s denim, underwear, and fragrance divisions.
Plus, consumer’s decisions changed during the pandemic, which arrived less than a year later. PVH confirmed their strategy change in 2021, explaining that “Underwear as a category has been performing well through the pandemic. Specific hero product examples would be Calvin Klein’s Modern Cotton – specifically the bralette.” Calvin Klein now heavily relied on well-known figures to reach their consumers, shifting away from the strategy of shock value and sex appeal. Plus, consumer’s decisions changed during the pandemic, which arrived less than a year later. PVH confirmed their strategy change in 2021, explaining that “Underwear as a category has been performing well through the pandemic.
Specific hero product examples would be Calvin Klein’s Modern Cotton – specifically the bralette.” Calvin Klein now heavily relied on well-known figures to reach their consumers, shifting away from the strategy of shock value and sex appeal.
With the arrival of Veronica Leoni in May of 2024, Calvin Klein entered a new era. On top of having worked in Jil Sander, Celine, Moncler and, most recently, The Row, Leoni is the creator of her own brand, Quira. This solo project can be described as a great story of artistic audacity, bold style and playful elegance, a clear sign of how the creative director fits into Calvin Klein’s aesthetic. Eva Serrano, Calvin Klein’s Global Brand President, announced the hire herself, “Calvin Klein is thrilled to return to the global stage at New York Fashion Week and unveil Veronica Leoni’s creative vision for the Calvin Klein Collection.” The show took place on February 7th at 12pm.
On the agenda are both women’s and mens’ looks for fall 2025. On top of this exciting news, Calvin Klein has announced the opening of a new flagship in SoHo for the end of 2025. With this in mind, the brand is sure to continue to ignite its audience with ideas of bold self-expression and provocative imagery. Let’s see which boundaries will be pushed as we step into this new era of Calvin Klein.
By Maë Panzani
Sources:
https://wwd.com/feature/calvin-klein-history-1236091817
