Synonymous with jet set and glamour, Emilio Pucci fastly became one of the most worn fashion brands by the high-class society of the 60’s and 70’s. The vibrant splash of colors in Emilio Pucci’s designs not only symbolized freedom of expression but also liberated the woman’s body from the rigid, sober tailored suits of the previous decades. It mirrors a form of rebellion and feminine freedom that revolutionized society and modern art. However, with the rise of minimalism and the death of Emilio Pucci, the brand struggled to keep up its influence, having a hard time coming up with creative innovations. Today, Pucci’s designs are once again being spotted everywhere from the slopes to the sandy shores. Can we talk about the revival of the psychedelic and 60’s tendencies? How is the brand making its comeback?
Vintage revival plays a big part in fashion culture. Trends are constantly being passed around from decades to decades. What was once fashionable can very easily become trendy again. Lately, the 60’s iconic style is making a big comeback with the bob haircut for example, an iconic symbol of the decade, seen on supermodels like Kendall Jenner or Hailey Bieber. Runways, clubs and streets are filled with high knee boots and kitten heels.
The 60’s sci-fi inspired aesthetic is being heavily represented in brands such as Paco Rabanne that constantly uses chrome and holographic fabrics in their collections. Additionally, the vibrant colors of this era have inspired Courreges that used sleek vinyl fabrics and geometric cuts to create the success of their iconic set of the cropped vinyl jacket and glossy mini skirt reintroduced in Fall/winter 2021. With all of that being said, the 60’s revival is the perfect opportunity for Emilio Pucci’s comeback.
Back in the days, Emilio Pucci’s fame was based on his futuristic vision and space-aged inspiration as seen in his 1960’s collaboration with Nasa, for which he created space suits. His designs illustrate motions symbolizing change, evolution and a bright future. However, today’s success is more about honoring the past. The strategy consists in nostalgic marketing which you can clearly see in the new advertising featuring Amelia Gray.
Sticking to its original identity, the brand still embraces the retro psychedelics design and targets a similar audience. The same way they did back then, their design is also seen on performers, like Beyonce, given that the flowing silhouettes and vibrant patterns perfectly resonate with rhythm and music. They also did some significant collaborations, with Fusalp for example in 2022. By working with ski apparel just like Emilio Pucci did in the 60’s, the brand shows commitment to its original strategy since their concept has always been about creating luxury resort wear to embrace the jet-set lifestyle.
Collaboration with Fusalp 2022-2023
Advertising before
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Advertising now
Pucci’s comeback results from a few downturns and reconstructions. After Emilio Pucci’s passing in 1992 the brand struggled to keep up, which led to its acquisition by LVMH, which obtained a 67% stake in 2000, initially wanting to modernize it. From 2015 to 2021, the fashion house erased itself from mainstream fashion talks as it faced a strong period of instability without a clear creative director. They continued to produce pieces but they lacked strong seasonal collections. In 2021, LVMH took full control of the brand which marks the beginning of its relaunch in the Fashion world. In the following year, Camille Miceli became the new creative director focusing on archival prints, silk material but more modern silhouettes. After some significant collaborations and a shift in strategy, Pucci has become once again the high-end resort wear brand it once was and LVMH’s long term investment in the brand is finally paid off. Potentially, it can even regain its place as a top-tier luxury brand. By following the same steps, they took with Fendi, LVMH would not only revive the brand, they could also reposition it as a high-luxury label.
By Steph Nassif
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