Over the past year, the Gucci runway has stolen the spotlight of Milan fashion week stirring conversations and mixed opinions. The spring/summer 2024 collection unveiled a new era at Gucci with the arrival of Sabato De Sarno. By closing the doors of Alessandro Michele’s maximalist approach, the new designer brings a fresh sophisticated touch to the brand by replacing Michele’s eclectic signature with more minimalist designs. Given that De Sarno changed the brand’s image, some critics mention that he is compromising the brand’s identity. Some would even say that Gucci is losing its edge. With that being said, can we talk about a reinvention of Gucci or is it actually a return to its roots?
For the past decade, Gucci has been recognized for its heavy embellishment and colourful prints. Conversely, the new designer is heading towards more wearable pieces using solid colours. He introduced the “ancora” colour, this dark wintery red, as his personal signature and the brand’s new “IT” factor. In his designs, we can see tailored blazers, trench coats and structured bags, signalling a move towards practicality and elegance.
Spring/summer 2024 collection
Some critics mention that Gucci is losing what it’s known for, what distinguishes it from other brands, and this reflects on the economy of the fashion house. The brand has been under lots of pressure lately: In 2024, as per the article on Reuters France’s Kering warns on 2024 operating profit, that sales dropped by 25% compared to 2023, impacting Kering’s performance as the group fell behind its competitors, LVMH and Hermes. This financial decline might be justified by the switch in the brand that has not been well received in some key markets, like Asia. This can be explained by the fact that Sabato’s classic designs don’t resonate with their culture as well as Michele’s colourful and eccentric approach.
However, Sabato is not betraying the brand’s identity, he’s returning to its roots all while adding his own personal touch. We can see this with the return of the “Jackie” bag collection, initially created in 1950, in new colours which is an innovative way for the brand to grow all while finding inspiration in the past. Actually, his work is closer to the work of creative directors that came before his predecessor. The original style of Gucci was sophisticated, timeless and elegant. However, Alessandro’s approach is what drifted the brand from its original target audience and image of high luxury and exclusivity. In fact, during his era, Gucci was sometimes perceived as flashy, made for the “new money” that wanted to “prove something” which doesn’t really align with the brand’s initial vision.
Alessandro Michele’s Work
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Sabato de Sarno’s Work
The spring/summer 2024 collection is a comeback to Gucci’s original values by showcasing the Italian craftsmanship and the effortless Italian style. Some people define it as quiet luxury, but to me he’s creating pieces that aren’t just impressive on the runway, they’re also wearable. Sabato’s collection makes people think and dream about it because they can envision themselves in the clothes. The difference is that Michele’s approach was so extravagant that you can’t really catch people wearing it since it’s more difficult to style.
It’s true that change can be uncomfortable and uneasy, however people will eventually get used to it. In the long term, Gucci needs to evolve in order to match the standards of this new fashion era where people are more leaning towards quality, elegance and quietness rather than logos and maximalism. Also change is important in fashion or else it might start getting boring and repetitive which will also eventually affect sales. Even if it has not been received conveniently, Sabato creates timeless pieces that will be appreciated in the long term. Although it takes time for the media and the public to realize it, Sabato’s work is a revival of the brand, a return to its original identity, the one the brand had before the intervention of Alessandro Michele.
Sabato de Sarno’s Work
By Stephanie Nassif
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