On Tuesday October 1st 2024, the curtains of the Opera Garnier opened for its annual Fundraiser Gala. As dancers stepped on stage dressed in Chanel costumes, the House took on, once again, its role as Grand Patron of the French National Opera.
A Historical Connection
Performance arts have always been a part of Chanel’s core, starting with the beloved Coco Chanel. As a young seamstress, Coco Chanel took dance lessons with famous artists such as Caryathis and Isadora Duncan. She grew as a fashion designer, and so did her appreciation for dance. In Paris, she discovered the Ballets Russes, an itinerant ballet company which began in the french capital and performed between 1909 and 1929 throughout Europe. In the early 1920s, she met the company’s production director, Serge Diaghilev, in Venice. A dynamic friendship flourished between the two, and they quickly influenced each other’s artistic works. In 1924, Chanel brought her visions to life, drawing costumes for the Ballets Russes’ production of “Le Train Bleu.” Her work was revolutionary, empowering dancers in swimsuits and tennis clothing, outfits allowing movement unlike the traditionally worn corsets. Chanel’s designs for the ballet helped solidify her reputation as a forward-thinking designer, one who embraced modern concepts. Such a close and early relationship between Gabrielle Chanel and performance arts formed a hallmark, which set the stage for future projects within the luxury house.
In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became the artistic director of Chanel. Lagerfeld was known to play with time within his collections, often mixing historic aesthetics to futuristic ones. He was also recognized for imagining costumes in the world of performance, associating fashion with set realm. Notable collaborations include his works with the Teatro alla Scala in Milan and the Opera Florence. His vision of fashion, interconnected with other disciplines, was closely related to Gabrielle Chanel’s. Following in her footsteps, Lagerfeld decided to make Chanel a patron of the French Opera in 2006, which ultimately also led to him taking inspiration from Opera for his collections. The Spring/Summer 2013 featured soft pastels, tulle skirts, and delicate layers that evoked colors often seen in ballet, while the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015 included gowns echoing the drama of the Opera. Just like Chanel had done, Karl Lagerfeld also collaborated with multiple artists, specifically dancers. He worked with choreographer Jean-Christophe Maillot and the Monte Carlo Ballets in 2006 for Altro Canto, as well as Benjamin Millepied for Brahms – Schönberg Quartet of Balanchine when the ballet made its entry in the Opera’s repertoire in 2016. Through these collaborations, Lagerfeld honored Chanel’s legacy as a fashion designer dedicated to blending fashion and performance arts.
A Mutually Beneficial Relationship
The established relationship between Chanel and the French Opera can be seen in a multitude of ways. One of them is the sponsorship of events and performances. A notable first would be Carmen in 2006, which Chanel supported through high-profile events covered by major fashion magazines like Vogue, Elle or Harper’s Bazaar. The House also imagined costumes for Carmen, blending tradition with modernity. Since then, Chanel has worked on designs for productions like “La Traviata” (2008), “The Magic Flute” (2009), and “Don Giovanni” (2010). These pieces have showcased Chanel’s craftsmanship in a new context, one which includes movement and contemporary art. Additionally, costumes designed by Chanel have made an appearance during Gala Evenings at the Paris Opera. Seeing approximately 900,000 visitors each year, the Opera allows for engagement with a diverse and affluent audience. Sponsorship events have been an effective way to create a buzz within the fashion industry and the Opera world, even reaching major newspapers like the New York Times, the Washington Post, Le Monde, and others.
On a smaller scale, Chanel promotes new talents and artists at the Opera. Launched in November of 2017, Chanel’s podcast has dedicated episodes to topics dear to the House. In 2019, a new series about the body, movement, and freedom was recorded at the Opera Garnier. Guests included Paris Opera ballet director Aurélie Dupont and principal dancer Diana Vishneva, actresses Keira Knightley and Kate Moran as well as choreographer Ohad Naharin. Specifically, Aurélie Dupont has often shared details on the Opera’s relationship with Chanel. During an interview for Vogue, she stated, “Often, it is the choreographer who has the dream of collaborating with the designer.” Later, she added, “All designers are fascinated with dance. They are fascinated by movement.” Her testimony further highlights a sort of symbiotic relationship between artists in fashion and those at the Opera. Other well-known figures in dance who collaborated with Chanel are Benjamin Millepied, Marie-Agnès Gillot, Mathieu Ganio, and Sofia Boutella. In some instances, French opera dancers have modeled for Chanel on the runway or in campaigns. Marie-Agnès Gillot made a memorable appearance in the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 show while Aurélie Dupont walked in the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015 show. Chanel’s patronage also includes supporting emerging artists and performers, nurturing the next generation of talents in the opera world.
The Year 2024 Strengthens Ties Between Chanel and the Opera
On June 25th 2024, ambassadors and friends of the House gathered at the Palais Garnier for the first fashion show since artistic director Virginie Viard exited the House: the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture show. As Patron of the dance season’s Opening Gala since 2018, CHANEL chose to present the collection to pay homage to the maison’s long relationship with the Opéra national de Paris. Notable personalities present included Michelle Williams, Keira Knightley, Sadie Sink, Naomi Campbell, Greta Gerwig, Angele, and many more. Some, such as Anna Mouglalis, Vanessa Paradis, Christophe Honore, and Olivia Dean even shared their impressions and thoughts with filmmaker, writer and producer Margaret Zhang after the show.
Not even four months later, The Paris Opera Ballet Fundraiser Gala 2024/2025 was made possible with the generous support of Chanel. Celebrities like Lupita Nyong’o, Kelly Rutherford, Rebecca Armstrong, Aline Asmar d’Amman, Charlotte Casiraghi, and Clémence Poésy were also in attendance, among others.
Commencing with a traditional ballet procession, the show presented the Étoiles, the Premiers Danseurs, the Corps de Ballet, and students from the Paris Opera Dance School. These performances were followed by “Word for Word” by choreographer My’kal. Costumes were signed by Chanel, custom-made and adapted to match the movement of each dancer. Strengthening the relationship between the House and the Opera, the recent event has already concocted great media coverage, with articles in magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and publications by both Chanel and the Opera on social media.
Through a centennial sponsorship of individuals and events, the House has created an image of itself as not only modern and forward-looking, but also highly motivated to engage with a diverse audience. The friendship between Chanel and the Opera continues to blossom, setting the stage for future collaborations.
By Maë Panzani
Sources:
https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/a-line-of-beauty/visiting-guide
https://www.chanel.com/ae-en/haute-couture/fall-winter-2024-25/
https://www.fhcm.paris/en/news/chanel-fall-winter-202425-haute-couture-collection
https://www.chanel.com/fr/mode/news/2018/09/karl-lagerfeld-and-dance.html
