A timeless piece of clothing is becoming more and more of a radical idea in this era of fashion characterised by an ever increasing pace. A pace of creation, production, and consumption that is becoming more apparently harmful, yet also one that is very hard to curb as it has almost become synonymous with fashion itself.
As if to add fuel to the fire, beyond the countless collections that are being rolled out more frequently than the seasons, fast-fashion retailers have also been venturing into the world of collaborations. Collaborations are, by design, created to generate buzz. Although they are great ways for brands to leverage on each others strong points in the age of sharing, they are undeniably becoming more about the ‘hype’ around the collections and consumers trying to buy products before they sell out, rather than the quality and creative value that the garments hold, amplified by the fact that two brands are working together.
With this connotation that collaborations have gained, the key struggle now is to regain the integrity of this means for designers to combine their creative powers. Of course, the buzz around the collections will always be there, and this is an integral part of the marketing and communication aspects. However, designers and brands should be careful not to let it take control of the entire collaboration, and strive to create meaningful collections that live on even after the initial hype has died down and all the popular pieces have been sold out.
Timeless pieces are hard to nail, and no clothing item can be created with the foolproof formula to becoming timeless. Timelessness might even sound paradoxical in an industry that has always been so keen to innovate, with designers that will settle for no less than groundbreaking. Despite the contradictory expression, some pieces still withstand the test of time, and prove to be safe and comfortable enough to stay in the wardrobes of a wide segment of customers.
Yet being safe and comfortable doesn’t mean playing it safe. Timeless pieces are disconnected from a particular point in time, and reject the rules that fast-fashion is now more than ever trying to impose. They can still be innovative and groundbreaking, and in this day and age of mass consumption fuelled by the desire to fit in, just the simple act of designing to stand separately from trends is already a bold move.
Just as it might have been thought that collaborations were far removed from the concept of timelessness and already too deeply associated with fleeting moments in time, a collaboration dating back to 2009 has been revived. At the time, the high-level designer was the first to devote time and energy to affordable fashion by collaborating with a mass retailer.
Jil Sander’s aim is to make clothes that are indispensable. She has been working towards this since 1968 when she set up her own label fashion company at age 24. It was in the 80’s and 90’s when her clothes made a bolder statement by embracing a radical simplicity compared to the popular look of the time. Her silhouettes and the structural integrity of the garments attracted women and confirmed her mastery of textile, leading her designs to be described as “Old Celine before Old Celine”.
After the success of her first collaboration with the Japanese mass retailer Uniqlo, J+ is back as a response and reaction to disposable fashion. Jil Sander said in an interview with The Cut that she never lost contact with Uniqlo after the first launch, and the pandemic brought urgency to the project, as she also hopes that the collection will inspire people to get dressed again. It is especially times like these when our daily lives are so altered that the need for timelessness becomes more apparent, as “yesterday’s looks and behaviors no longer seem real to us”.
Given the distribution network and logistics that come with being a mass retailer, and the clear vision of its brand identity which is based on high-quality casual wear at a lower price point, Uniqlo can be seen as the perfect fit for Jil Sander to collaborate with. Both are driven by innovation, but stay true to their vision of a minimal aesthetic that carries their designs through the passage of time.
Despite the juxtaposition that collaborations – and fashion in general – seem to convey with the term timelessness, J+ shines a light of hope for more meaningful and long lasting collections. It shows it is possible to create something that captures the attention of the masses, while staying beyond the moment and striving for longevity. Most pieces of the collection sold out within minutes, but they are likely to stay in the wardrobes of the customers for much longer, which is the key piece of inspiration that this collaboration brings to the world of fashion.
by Selin Hatunoglu
